Sweaters, Sweatshirts, And Their Designs

Snuggle in and get comfortable as we explore the cozy world of sweaters, sweater designs, and sweatshirts. From the origins of woolen pullovers to the evolution of modern sweatshirts, this episode of I Can’t Sleep will lull you into relaxation with soft, soothing narration. Perfect for those who love warm layers—or just need something to help them doze off.

Transcript

Welcome to the I Can't Sleep Podcast,

Where I read random articles from across the web to bore you to sleep with my soothing voice.

I'm your host,

Benjamin Boster,

And today's episode is a combination of three Wikipedia articles.

The first is about sweaters,

The second is sweater design,

And the third is sweatshirts.

A sweater,

North American English,

Or pullover,

Also called a jersey or jumper,

For British English,

Hiberno-English,

And Australian English,

Is a piece of clothing,

Typically with long sleeves,

Made of knitted or crocheted material that covers the upper part of the body.

When sleeveless,

The garment is often called a slipover,

Tank top,

Or sweater vest.

Sweaters are worn by adults and children,

Often over a shirt,

Blouse,

T-shirt,

Or another top,

But sometimes next to the skin.

Sweaters were traditionally made from wool,

But can now be made of cotton,

Synthetic fibers,

Or any combination of these.

There are also seasonal sweaters,

Which around Christmas are often called ugly sweaters.

According to British dictionaries,

Sweater is used in British English in the same sense as in American English,

But jumper is commonly used instead,

Though some say that sweater is used for heavier ones worn for warmth.

The Oxford English Dictionary states that in British usage,

Sweaters are always pulled over the head,

And jumpers are not necessarily,

Whereas most or all other British dictionaries disagree and say that sweaters are not necessarily pullovers,

Or even say that jumpers are always pullovers,

I.

E.

Never open in front.

The Oxford English Dictionary gives sweater as appearing in 1882,

And gives its definition as a woolen vest or jersey worn in or other athletic exercises,

Originally to reduce one's weight,

Now commonly put on also before or after exercise to prevent taking cold.

Hence,

A similar garment for general informal wear,

A jumper,

Or pullover.

According to most British dictionaries,

British usage agrees with what American dictionaries describe as American English usage,

According to which a sweater is either a pullover or a cardigan,

Which opens at the front.

Almost all British dictionaries include cardigans as a type of sweater,

But at least one includes cardigans as a type of jumper,

I.

E.

Most British dictionaries consider sweater,

And at least one considers jumper,

To be a hypernym for both pullovers and cardigans.

Colloquial and informal usage common in Britain is using the term cardi for a cardigan,

Which usually refers to a button front sweater.

The term sweater is a catch-all for a variety of knit garments.

Although the term often refers to a pullover,

It can also refer to a cardigan,

A garment that opens and fastens down the front.

Within either group,

There is a great variety of designs.

Various necklines are found,

Although the v-neck,

Turtleneck,

And crewneck are the most popular.

The hemline is typically at hip height or slightly longer,

Just overlapping the waist of one's pants or skirt,

But can vary significantly.

It can range from just below the bust in women's garments,

To mid-thigh in either sex,

Or even longer in a knitted variation of the poncho shirtdress.

The sleeve length is also variable,

Ranging from full-length or three-quarters to short-sleeved,

Cap sleeves,

Or sleeveless.

The front seam or opening of a cardigan allows for further different styles,

Such as surplus or bolero jacket.

All hems may have various types of borders,

Such as picots,

Ribbing,

And frills.

Knitted fabrics are generally somewhat elastic and have a softer hand,

Feel,

Or drape than woven fabric.

Sweaters that are more tightly fitted or have a softer drape may conform well to the body without requiring tailoring necessary in a woven garment,

Such as darts,

Flares,

And gores.

Even when such shaping is used,

It can be knit into the fabric itself without requiring seams.

Another type is a sweater vest.

A sweater with an open front fastened by buttons or a zipper is generally called a cardigan,

But the nomenclature or other styles in different dialects can be quite confusing.

In British English,

A sweater may also be called a pullover,

Jumper,

Or jersey.

In the United States,

However,

Jumper refers to a style of women's sleeveless dress,

Worn over a blouse or shirt,

And jersey refers to a knit shirt,

Especially if part of an athletic uniform.

If sleeveless,

Such a garment may be called a slipover or tank top in British English,

While tank top in U.

S.

English refers to a sleeveless shirt or undershirt.

In the U.

S.

,

A sleeveless sweater may also be called a sweater vest,

Especially if it has a v-neck and somewhat formal appearance,

Resembling a formal vest,

A garment known as a waistcoat in the UK.

In British English,

Vest refers to an undershirt.

In South African English,

A knitted sweater is always called a jersey,

While sweater,

When used,

Refers to a sweatshirt.

In the sport of ice hockey,

The top of a hockey player's uniform had traditionally been a sweater,

And even though modern hockey uniform tops are more commonly a jersey,

They are typically referred to as a hockey sweater,

Regardless of the style,

But frequently in the U.

S.

It is called a hockey jersey.

Article of Clothing.

Knitted garment covering torso and arms that is closed at the front.

U.

S.

Sweater,

Pullover.

U.

K.

Sweater,

Pullover,

Jumper.

A knitted garment covering torso and arms that is open at the front.

In the U.

S.

,

It's a sweater or cardigan.

In the U.

K.

,

It's a sweater,

Cardigan,

Or jumper.

Women's Sleeveless Dress.

In the U.

S.

,

It's a jumper.

In the U.

K.

,

A pinafore.

Cotton or jersey garment covering torso and arms that is closed at the front.

In the U.

S.

,

Sweatshirt.

In the U.

K.

,

Jersey.

Athletic shirt.

In the U.

S.

,

Jersey.

In the U.

K.

,

Jersey,

Kit,

Refers to full sport.

Sleeveless knit garment.

In the U.

S.

,

Sweater vest,

Slipover.

In the U.

K.

,

Slipover,

Tank top.

Sleeveless undershirt.

In the U.

S.

,

Tank top.

In the U.

K.

,

Vest,

Singlet.

Sleeveless formal garment.

In the U.

S.

,

Vest.

In the U.

K.

,

Waistcoat.

Thin Sweaters Thin sweaters may be worn tucked into the waistband of trousers,

But otherwise men's sweaters are worn untucked.

Nonetheless,

Some individuals,

Including some television and film actors,

Have been known for wearing tucked-in sweaters.

Sweaters are a versatile item of clothing and can be worn on top of almost any outfit.

Sports sweaters are often worn on tops of sports kit while traveling to or from a sports ground.

Sweaters can be worn with a dress shirt underneath and,

Optionally,

A tie,

Which has the advantage of allowing the wearer to have the option of removing the sweater when it is uncomfortably warm and still looking presentable in many situations.

Layering and the ease with which it allows for temperature regulation is a major benefit of the sweater as an article of clothing.

Various methods have evolved for conveniently carrying a sweater once removed.

The three most common approaches are around the waist,

Either loincloth or knotted in front style,

And over the shoulder.

In the late 20th century,

The sweater increasingly came to be worn as an alternative to a shirt when finer materials made them more comfortable next to the skin.

Some people enjoy wearing Christmas-related sweaters around Christmastime to get into the festive spirit.

Some women's sweaters are meant to be worn belted.

A belt or drawstring is sometimes knitted into the sweater itself.

Leggings are commonly worn with long sweaters or sweater dresses.

Sweaters are often maintained by washing or dry cleaning and the use of a lint roller or pill raiser.

But airing and rinsing in pure water,

If necessary,

Is considered better than washing with soap or another detergent,

Especially when not all the natural oil,

Lanolin,

Has been removed from the wool.

The use of detergent is in fact detrimental because it removes the lanolin,

Which helps the wool to repel and shed dirt as well as water.

In fact,

Sweaters made from unscoured wool,

Such as some Irish Aran jumpers,

Remain wearable even when wet.

The uniforms that present-day ice hockey players wear are referred to as sweaters.

This is because the original uniforms were simply sweaters with the team's crest stitched on the front.

However,

As technology changed,

So did the uniforms,

As actual sweaters absorbed too much moisture and became weighed down and cumbersome throughout the course of a game.

Sweater design is a specialization of fashion design in which knitted sweaters are designed to fulfill certain aesthetic,

Functional,

And commercial criteria.

The designer typically considers factors such as the insulating power of the sweater and its resulting warmth for the wearer,

The fashion of its colors,

Patterns,

Silhouette,

And style lines,

Particularly the neckline and waistline,

The convenience and practicality of its cut,

And in commercial design the cost of its production and the profitability of its price point.

Sweater designs are often published in books and knitting magazines.

Sweater design is an old art but continues to attract new designers such as Nicky Epstein and Meg Swanson.

The aim of sweater design is a sweater that fulfills certain criteria.

The primary criterion is that its intended wearer wants to wear it and,

In case of commercial sweater design,

Is willing to buy it at a commercially feasible price point.

General secondary criteria include the insulating power,

Material,

And breathability of the sweater should make its intended wearer physically comfortable.

The sweater should be appropriate for the occasion in which it will be worn,

Makes its intended wearer feel fashionably attractive.

To satisfy these secondary criteria,

The designer has several tools at their disposal such as yarns,

Colors,

Patterns,

Textures,

Necklines,

Hemlines,

Sleeve shapes,

Style lines,

Pockets,

And embellishments,

As well as the fit of the garment to its intended wearer,

The silhouette.

For commercial sweater design,

The production of the sweater must also be inexpensive,

Lest the price point be too high and make the sweater undesirable.

This is generally done by simplifying the design so that it can be made by machine.

More complicated commercial designs are generally hand-knit in pieces that are then stitched together.

For example,

The separate pieces of the hand-knit sweaters found in stores are generally knit and assembled in different villages in China.

Despite the wealth of design techniques and studies of successful designs,

The primary criterion that the sweater be desired is not always achieved,

Often due to factors beyond the designer's control,

Including serendipity.

Sweaters are worn in various circumstances.

For example,

While some sweaters are worn at fancy dress occasions,

Others are worn to work,

To religious services,

And sporting or outdoors events,

Such as hiking and camping.

Similarly,

The choice of a sweater can vary with different climates and different seasons,

Even with different times of the day.

A sweater designer will generally target a particular occasion and temperature,

E.

G.

A bulky,

Cabled,

Long-sleeved woolen sweater for camping versus a refined,

Elegantly simple,

Short-sleeved cashmere sweater for white-collar work.

Comfort is paramount.

The sweater should make the wearer feel at ease in the most general sense.

The temperature should be right,

The fabric should breathe,

And should not irritate the skin.

The sweater should hang right and not need constant adjustment.

It should fit well and allow for customary motion without binding,

E.

G.

At the armholes.

Finally,

A sweater should not make the wearer feel uncomfortable because of its cut or general style.

The fit of a sweater affects its comfort,

Its attractiveness,

And sometimes its practicality,

E.

G.

Dangling sleeves can fall into food or get caught on hooks.

As simple as sweaters,

Drop sleeves,

Cylindrical,

Require six measurements.

Circumference around the bust,

Chest,

Widest point.

Circumference or width of the neck.

Underarm length,

Armhole to sleeve cuff hem.

Circumference of the arm at the sleeve cuff hem.

Back length,

Vertical distance from the back of the neck to lower hem.

Armhole depth,

Vertical distance from bottom of armhole to lower hem.

A few more measurements usually produce a well-fitted sweater.

Circumference at the lower hem.

Overarm length,

Shoulder to sleeve cuff hem.

Circumference of the upper arm near the armhole.

Bust height,

Vertical distance from back of the neck to bust line.

Shoulder width,

Horizontal distance between bony shoulder points,

Measured across back.

For a more tailored look,

Even more measurements are necessary.

Slope at the shoulders,

Vertical distance from base of neck to shoulder point line.

Neck shoulder length,

Horizontal distance from base of neck to shoulder point.

Circumference at the waist,

The point of largest inward or outward curvature.

Waist height,

Vertical distance from back of the neck to waistline.

Ideally,

These measurements will be taken directly from the intended wearer,

Since bodies are idiosyncratic and these measurements may vary independently of one another,

E.

G.

The bust measurement does not determine the waist or hip measurements,

Just as the height does not determine the arm length or shoulder width.

Alternatively,

The body measurements may be estimated from clothing that fits the wearer well.

As a last resort,

Standard measurements such as EN 13402 or US standard clothing sizes may be used.

Of course,

A sweater need not conform exactly to the wearer's body.

Ease may be introduced to make the sweater larger than the body,

Oversized,

Typically by increasing the circumference measurements by 2-6 inches.

Different amounts of ease can be introduced at different points to give the sweater a distinctive silhouette.

For example,

A Gibson girl sleeve is produced by adding much ease to the upper arm and none to the lower arm,

Whereas the reverse is true for bell sleeves,

Also called bishop sleeves.

Similarly,

The bodice can fit loosely in the bust and tightly at the waist,

Or the reverse.

Negative ease,

I.

E.

Subtracting from the body measurements,

Is also possible to achieve a very close-fitting look,

But more than 2 inches is not recommended.

By making the sweater match the desired measurements,

An excellently fitting sweater can be made.

The width of a knitted piece at a given height should equal the corresponding circumference.

For example,

If the desired bust circumference is 38 inches,

Then the front or back width at the height should be 19 inches.

The width of the upper sleeve just before the sleeve cap,

If any,

Should likewise equal the desired circumference of the upper arm.

Having determined the size and shapes of the knitted pieces,

The number of stitches in a row is given by the desired width multiplied by the knitting gauge.

Similarly,

The number of rows in a column may be determined by multiplying the desired height by the vertical gauge.

The human body has curvature,

But woven fabric is flat and has little elasticity.

To produce curvature in a smooth,

Unruffled woven fabric,

It is necessary to subtract or add wedges of fabric.

Positive curvature,

Cupping,

Such as needed at the bust point or over the rear,

Is produced by subtracting a wedge,

A dart,

With the point of the dart almost at the point of the desired maximum curvature.

The greater the angle of the wedge,

The greater the local curvature.

The orientation of the dart is unimportant for the curvature,

So it can be chosen to accentuate a style line of the garment.

Similarly,

Negative curvature,

Ruffling,

Saddle shaping,

As at a skirt hem,

Lower back or under the bust,

Is produced by adding a wedge,

A flare.

Although the base of individual wedges usually lies on a seam,

Sometimes wedges occur in pairs,

Diamonds,

That are independent of the seams.

Subtracting a diamond-shaped dart produces positive curvature at the outer points of the diamond,

And negative curvature at the middle points that are brought together,

Good for the bust or back.

Conversely,

Adding a diamond-shaped gusset produces negative curvature at its tips and positive curvature at its middle,

Useful in designing stuffed animals.

Sometimes the sharp angular edges of the wedges are softened to form continuous princess seams.

Since knitted fabric is generally elastic,

It conforms readily to the wearer's body without shaping.

However,

Some shaping may be necessary when the knitted fabrics are usually stiff,

E.

G.

Thick cable designs or heavily overstitched designs,

Or in regions of high curvature,

E.

G.

Sock heels.

Ironically,

Shaping is much easier and less obvious with knitted fabrics than with woven cloth.

Instead of cutting out wedges and sewing the edges together,

Knitters can add or subtract stitches,

Work short rows,

Or most subtly of all,

Change the needle size to produce smaller,

Larger stitches in the desired wedge region.

The choice of yarn affects the comfort of the sweater,

Since it affects its warmth,

Weight,

And ability to breathe or air exchange.

Some yarns will also produce itching or even allergic reactions in some wearers.

The yarn affects the bulk and drape of the knitted fabric,

As well as the visibility of stitches.

Complicated stitch patterns are best seen with a smooth,

Highly spun yarn and may be invisible with furry yarns,

Such as mohair or novelty yarns.

The washability of yarn affects its practicability.

Thus,

Sweaters knitted for young children are usually knitted in acrylics,

Which are light in weight and washable.

The yarn will also determine the lifetime of the sweater.

In general,

Highly spun yarns suffer less wear with time.

And how well it retains its shape.

Elastic yarns like wool are better than non-elastic yarns like cotton or silk.

The choice of color is critical to the design of a sweater.

The simplest choice is to use multiple shades of a single color,

E.

G.

Various shades of blue,

Perhaps accented with a contrasting color,

E.

G.

Flecks of yellow.

The arrangement of shades on the sweater can have a significant visual effect due to the principle of chiaroscuro.

Dark shades tend to recede and be smaller,

Whereas light shades advance and seem larger.

For example,

Vertical stripes with a light color in the middle and dark colors on the sides have a slimming effect.

Psychologically,

Bright colors tend to be associated with straightforward,

Innocent,

Or extroverted personalities,

Whereas darker shades are associated with more thoughtful,

Experienced,

And introverted personalities.

The temperature of a color also affects its perceived depth.

Warm colors have red or yellow tones,

Including orange and yellow-green,

And are associated psychologically with warmth and energy.

Cool colors have more bluish undertones,

Including purples,

Aquas,

And greens,

And are associated psychologically with serene,

Calm personalities.

Warm colors tend to advance relative to cool colors when both are presented simultaneously.

Contrasting colors may be chosen in various ways.

A common choice is to take a complementary color from one of the several color wheels,

E.

G.

Blue and orange,

Green and red,

Or to choose a pairing that occurs in nature,

E.

G.

Yellow and red.

A designer has many choices for how to shape the sleeve length and cap,

Waistline,

Hemline,

And neckline color.

These various choices and their visual effects are described in their individual entries.

The overall shape,

Silhouette,

Of the garment is defined by the ease introduced at various points,

As described above under fitting.

In addition,

A sweater may have ornamental lines,

Curves,

Even images.

In general,

These lines are chosen to achieve a balanced look.

For example,

Well-chosen style lines can help compensate for body lines considered too long or too angular,

Or too short or too rounded.

However,

Visual effects may be idiosyncratic,

And the knitter is encouraged to experiment.

The scale of the overall pattern relative to the size of the whole sweater is a key variable in the look of the sweater.

Large overall patterns eliminate the need for accent patterns,

But may be too bold for some wearers.

A small,

Fine pattern makes an excellent background for accent patterns,

But may not be visible with a particular yarn,

Or may be too retiring for some sweaters.

A sweater done uniformly in the same pattern overall is relatively simple and understated,

Which may be the desired effect.

However,

It is more usual to decorate the sleeve cuffs,

And either the neckline or the lower hemline,

With an accent pattern.

The accent band can be rather wide,

Often roughly a third of the total length,

And its boundary can be straight or wavy serrated.

Smaller boundaries,

Such as collars,

Tops of pockets,

Central seam and cardigan,

May receive special ornamentation as well,

E.

G.

Cabling along its edges.

There are many types of ornamental embellishments that can modify the overall look of the sweater.

Collars and lapels are perhaps the most visually obvious embellishments.

They frame the face,

Neck and shoulders,

And complement the neckline and armhole lines.

The choice of closures is an important practical consideration,

And can also help define the sweater's style.

Buttons and zippers are the most common choices for sweaters,

But frogs,

Ties and belts are also seen.

Shoulder pads and other shaping devices are uncommon,

But can be included to define a particular silhouette.

The fabric of the sweater can be ornamented with various textures,

Such as gathers,

Ruffles,

Pleats,

Ruching and shirring.

Ornamental patterns can be added using beads,

Buttons,

Sequins,

Bobbles,

Ribbons and knots,

As well as appliqué or cordwork.

Overstitching,

Also known as Swiss darning,

And other embroidery techniques,

Allow for many visual effects that cannot be made with normal knitting,

E.

G.

A circle of successively interlocking stitches.

A sweatshirt is a long-sleeved pullover shirt or jacket fashioned out of thick,

Usually cotton,

Cloth material.

Sweatshirts are almost exclusively casual attire,

And hence not as formal as some sweaters.

Sweatshirts may or may not have a hood.

A sweatshirt with a hood is now usually referred to as a hoodie,

Although more formal media may still use the term hooded sweatshirt.

In the 1920s,

Benjamin Russell,

Jr.

,

A quarterback for the Alabama Crimson Tide football team,

Was tired of the constant chafing and itching caused by their wool football uniforms.

He worked with his father,

Whose company,

Russell Manufacturing Company,

Made women's and children's knit garments,

To come up with a better option.

They created a thick cotton practice jersey for the team,

That was a modification of a ladies' union suit top.

These loose,

Collarless pullovers were the first sweatshirts.

A new division of the company,

Focusing solely on the production of sweatshirts,

Became the Russell Athletic Company.

The sweatshirt's potential as a portable advertising tool was discovered in the 1960s,

When U.

S.

Universities began printing their names on them to exhibit school pride.

The sweatshirt,

Along with a t-shirt,

Provided a cheap and effective way of disseminating information on a mass scale.

The t-shirt slogan fad of the 1970s inevitably translated to sweatshirts.

Due to the relative simplicity of customization and the power of clever graphics,

Combined with catchphrases,

Sweatshirts became a vehicle for personal expression for both the designer and the wearer.

In Australia,

The sweatshirt is referred to as a sloppy joe.

Reviews

This one, Benjamin, was the "worst" ever. So incredibly boring that I didn't even make it through section 1 of 3. Thanks much.

Thank you! I always wondered what the difference was between a jumper and a sweater and now I know. Maybe it will come up during a game someday! 🤣