The Dancing.
The woman had been in it for six days,
When Heinrich Bauer finally stopped pretending he couldn't see her.
She was still in the same stretch of street where she had started.
Her shoes were gone by then.
The cobblestones had taken care of that.
She danced without music.
She danced without expression.
She danced without stopping except to collapse for a few minutes in the gray hours before dawn and then always to rise again Her feet bled.
She did not appear to notice.
Heinrich watched her from the doorway of his storehouse.
He was a practical man.
He dealt in grain.
He did not believe in curses.
But he had no other word for what he was looking at.
Let me take you to Strasbourg in the summer of 1518.
Not the Strasbourg of postcards and Christmas markets.
The real one.
The hungry one.
The city sat on the Rhine in the territory of the Holy Roman Empire,
A prosperous trading town of perhaps 20,
000 souls.
Or it had been prosperous until recently.
The harvest of the previous two years had failed.
Grain prices had doubled and then doubled again.
People were eating bark.
Children were dying of things that had names and things that didn't.
The plague had passed through not long before and left gaps in families that no one talked about directly.
Because there were too many of them to count.
It was into this world that Farah Traffias stepped out of her home on a July morning in 1518 and began to dance.
Heinrich Bauer lived three streets over.
He heard about her before he saw her.
His wife,
Margarete,
Came home from the market with the news the way she sometimes came home with news about the neighbors arguing or a disputed debt.
Strange,
She said.
But probably nothing.
Probably it would stop.
It did not stop.
Heinrich first saw Pharao Traffiar on the third day.
He had been delivering a small consignment of rye to a baker on the Rue de Bruchet and he took a longer ride back simply because he was curious.
He told himself it was curiosity.
He's not sure now that's all it was.
She was a woman of perhaps 40,
Medium height,
Dark hair,
Loosened from whatever she had put it in whenever she started.
She moved with an intensity that was difficult to describe,
Not graceful.
Exactly,
But purposeful,
As though she was following instructions no one else could hear.
Her arms moved in patterns that repeated,
But never quite repeated the same way twice.
Her lips moved sometimes,
Not singing,
Something else.
People watched from windows.
A few had gathered on the streets,
Keeping a careful distance.
Nobody laughed.
That was the thing Heinrich remembered the most clearly later.
When he tried to explain it to people who hadn't been there,
Nobody laughed.
Whatever this was,
It did not feel like something you laugh at.
By the end of that week,
34 people had joined her.
Heinrich did not see it happen.
The joining.
Nobody seemed to have witnessed the exact moment when a new person crossed from watching to dancing.
They were simply there one day in the street.
A woman in her 20s?
Than a man older and tanner by his hands,
Than a girl of perhaps 14 whose father stood at the edge of the crowd calling her name for two hours before he went home.
The dancers did not acknowledge each other.
They did not dance together.
They danced alongside each other,
Each in their own private frenzy.
Like people dreaming the same dream in different rooms.
The physicians came.
Heinrich watched them move through the crowd,
Lifting risk to check their pulse,
Asking questions no one answered.
They conferred.
They wrote things down.
Their conclusion delivered to the city council with full weight of medical authority.
Was that the afflicted were suffering from hot blood.
The humors were unbalanced.
Heinrich heard this and felt something cold move through him.
It was that they needed to keep moving until it passed.
Now,
Here's where things get strange,
Because the city of Strasbourg did not simply tell the dancers to carry on.
The city built them a stage.
A wooden platform was constructed in the central square.
Musicians were hired,
Professional ones,
With drums and pipes and stringed instruments.
Professional dancers were brought in to accompany the afflicted and model.
Apparently.
Better technique.
The city's logic,
As best as Heinrich could reconstruct it,
Is from the council announcements read along in the square was that the dancing would exhaust itself if properly channeled.
That the afflicted needed to burn through whatever was driving them.
What happened instead?
Was people began to die.
The heat that summer was extraordinary.
Heinrich remembered it as the hottest August of his life.
The air above the cobblestone shimmering by midday.
The smell of the city,
Always present,
Thickened into something almost solid.
The dancers had no protection from it.
They danced through the noon hours when no sane person was outside.
They danced into the night.
When the stone still held the day's heat.
They drank when water was brought to them and sometimes when it wasn't.
Their feet,
Bare or nearly bare by then,
Left marks on the stage.
At the peak of it,
Heinrich was told,
He did not see this himself.
And he was grateful.
15 people died in a single day.
Heart failures,
Strokes,
Dehydration,
So severe that the body simply stopped.
He knew two of them,
A woman named Elsbeth who had bought grain from him every month for seven years,
A young man whose name he knew but face he could no longer fully recall,
Which bothered him more than he expected.
The musicians kept playing.
He went to the square once during that period,
In the early morning,
Before the heat built.
And what he saw there,
He did not fully describe to anyone for many years afterward.
The stage.
The bodies of the living dancers,
Moving with the kind of terrible endurance that was beyond exhaustion,
Past the point where exhaustion should have stopped them.
The musicians face blank,
Playing because they were being paid to play.
And over everything,
Under everything,
Was a sound he could not name.
Not the music.
Something underneath it.
Something that might have been the sound of 200 people breathing in a rhythm that was almost but not quite the same.
He left quickly.
He did not go back.
The church,
Which had been silent through the early weeks,
Finally spoke.
A pious belief has circulated for as long as anyone could remember,
That Saint Vitus,
One of the Martyrd Saints,
Had the power to curse sinners with uncontrollably dancing.
The specific form of this belief varied by neighborhood and by family,
But the core of it was this,
If the community had transgressed,
Saint Vitus could make you dance until he chose to release you,
Or until you die.
Heinrich was not a particularly religious man.
He lit his candles,
He attended mass,
He made his confessions.
He did not think much about saints,
But standing at the edge of that square in the gray morning light,
Watching people he had known for years move with their eyes open and nothing behind them,
He found himself thinking about transgression,
About what a city might do to deserve this.
About the harvest,
The hunger,
The children.
He did not finish the thought.
He went home.
He bolted the door.
In late August,
The authorities made a decision.
They banned all public music and dancing,
Every drum,
Every pipe.
Every string instrument was silenced.
The stage was dismantled.
The afflicted were bundled into wagons,
Gently,
Though Heinrich noted that gently in his context,
Still meant restraining people who did not stop moving and lifting them bodily into the cart,
And taking up the mountain to a shrine dedicated to Saint Vitus at Sauvern,
Some 20 miles from the city.
At the shrine,
The afflicted were given red shoes,
Blood red,
Specially made.
They were led around an altar,
Slowly,
In a prescribed pattern.
They were prayed over.
Anointed.
Over the following weeks,
The dancing stopped.
Heinrich never spoke with any of the dancers directly.
He tried.
Once,
To speak with the husband of a woman who had danced for three weeks and survived.
The husband was a cooper,
A man Heinrich had shared drinks with in better years.
He asked how she was.
The Cooper looked at him for a long moment and said,
She doesn't remember it.
None of it.
He said it like that was the good version.
Heinrich thought about that for a long time,
Whether not remembering was mercy or something else.
We know now,
Or we think we know,
That what happened in Strasbourg in 1518 was what historians call mass psychogenic illness.
A collective psychological breakdown triggered by extreme stress,
Famine,
Fear,
And a specific cultural framework of St.
Vitus that gave the hysteria its particular shape.
The body,
Under enough pressure,
Will find an exit.
In Strasbourg that summer,
The exit looked like dancing.
But Heinrich Bauer,
Grain merchant,
Practical man,
Did not have that framework.
He had what he saw,
A woman dancing alone in the street until her feet bled.
A city that decided that the cure for that was to give her an audience and a stage.
The sound underneath the music that he could not name.
He wrote about it once,
In a letter.
To his brother in Basel.
Copied by a monk sometime in the 16th century at the end of it.
After describing everything,
He wrote a single line that the historians who cite it tend to find puzzling.
Because it doesn't fit neatly into any of their theories.
He wrote.
She was trying to tell us something.
I don't know what.
I think she didn't know either.
But she kept trying.
He didn't explain what he meant.
And the letter just ends there.