Welcome to the I Can't Sleep Podcast,
Where I help you drift off one fact at a time.
I'm your host,
Benjamin Boster,
And today's episode is about the sewing machine.
Thanks to Dom for sponsoring today's episode.
This one is for Allison so she doesn't stay up till midnight.
A sewing machine is a machine used to sew fabric and materials together with thread.
Sewing machines were invented during the First Industrial Revolution to decrease the amount of manual sewing work performed in clothing companies.
Since the invention of the first sewing machine,
Generally considered to have been the work of Englishman Thomas Saint in 1790,
The sewing machine has greatly improved the efficiency and productivity of the clothing industry.
Home sewing machines are designed for one person to sew individual items while using a single stitch type at a time.
In a modern sewing machine,
The process of stitching has been automated,
So the fabric easily glides in and out of the machine.
Early sewing machines were powered by either constantly turning a flywheel handle or with a foot-operated treadle mechanism.
Electrically powered machines were later introduced.
Industrial sewing machines,
By contrast to domestic machines,
Are larger,
Faster,
And more varied in their size,
Cost,
Appearance,
And tasks.
Charles Frederick Wiesenthal,
A German engineer working in England,
Was awarded the first British patent for a mechanical device to aid the art of sewing in 1755.
His invention consisted of a double pointed needle with an eye at one end.
In 1790,
The English inventor Thomas Saint designed,
But did not construct,
An early sewing machine.
His machine was meant to be used on leather and canvas material,
Such as the soles of shoes.
He was a skilled cabinet maker,
And his device included many practical and functional features.
An overhanging arm,
A feed mechanism adequate for short lengths of leather,
A vertical needle bar,
And a looper.
Saint probably never built a prototype,
Although William Newton Wilson later used Saint's sketch to build a working model.
His sewing machine used the chain stitch method,
In which the machine was a single thread to make simple stitches in the fabric.
A stitching awl would have pierced the material,
And a forked point rod would have carried the thread through the hole,
Where it would have been hooked underneath,
And moved to the next stitching place,
After which the cycle would be repeated,
Thereby locking the stitch in place.
Saints Machine was designed to aid in the manufacturing of various leather goods,
Including saddles and bridles,
But it was also capable of working with canvas,
And was used for sewing ship sails.
Although his machine was very advanced for the era,
The concept would need steady improvement over the coming decades before it was practical enough to enter into wide use.
In 1874,
A sewing machine manufacturer,
William Newton Wilson,
Found Saint's Drawings in the UK Patent Office,
Made adjustments to the looper,
And built a working machine,
Currently owned by the Science Museum in London.
In 1804,
A sewing machine was built by two Englishmen,
Thomas Stone and James Henderson,
And a machine for embroidering was constructed by John Duncan in Scotland.
An Austrian tailor,
Josef Madersberger,
Began developing his first sewing machine in 1807,
And presented his first working machine publicly in 1814.
Having received financial support from his government,
The Austrian tailor worked on the development of his machine until 1839.
When he built a machine imitating the weaving process using the chain stitch.
The first practical and widely used sewing machine was invented by Barthelemy Timonier,
A French tailor in 1829.
His machine sewed straight seams using a chain stitch like Saint's model had,
And in 1830 he signed a contract with Auguste Ferrand,
The mining engineer,
Who made the requisite drawings and submitted a patent application.
The patent for his machine was used on July 17,
1830,
And in the same year he and his partners opened the first machine-based clothing manufacturing company in the world to create army uniforms for the French army.
Timonier's original machine was made of wood.
But a later version was metal.
A model of the earlier machine is exhibited in London at the Science Museum.
The machine uses a barbed needle,
Which passes downward through the cloth to grab the thread and pull it up to form a loop,
To be locked by the next loop.
The first American lock stitch sewing machine was invented by Walter Hunt in 1832.
His machine used a needle with the eye and the point on the same end,
Carrying the upper thread,
And a following shuttle carrying the lower thread.
The curved needle moves through the fabric horizontally,
Leaving the loop as it was drew.
The shuttle passed through the loop,
Interlocking the thread.
The feed was unreliable,
Requiring the machine to be stopped frequently and reset up.
Hund eventually lost interest in his machine and sold individual machines without bothering to patent his invention.
And only patenting it at a late date of 1854.
In 1842,
John Greena patented the first sewing machine in the United States.
The British partners Newton and Archibald introduced the eye-pointed needle and the use of two pressing surfaces to keep the pieces of fabric in position in 1841.
In 1844,
English inventors John Fisher and James Gibbons produced a machine which used an eye-pointed needle carrying one thread and a shuttle carrying the other to make a double-loop chain stitch.
This was a little earlier than the very similar machines built by Isaac Meretzinger in 1851 and Elias Howe in 1845.
Fisher's machine was intended to embroider fabric or make ornamented lace,
And was not created to be a general sewing machine.
Despite this,
It was able to be adapted into one and,
Along with John Duncan's machine,
Formed part of a court case challenging Elias Howe's 1845 patent.
Elias Howe,
Born in Spencer,
Massachusetts,
Created his sewing machine in 1845 using a similar method to Fisher's,
Except that the fabric was held vertically.
An important improvement on his machine was to have the needle running away from the point,
Starting from the eye.
After a lengthy stay in England,
Trying to attract interest in his machine,
He returned to America to find various people infringing his patent,
Among them Isaac Merritt Singer.
He eventually won a case for patent infringement in 1854 and was awarded the right to claim royalties from the manufacturers using ideas covered by his patent,
Including Singer.
Singer had seen a rotary sewing machine being repaired in a Boston shop.
As an engineer,
He thought it was clumsy and decided to design a better one.
The machine he devised used a falling shuttle instead of a rotary one.
The needle was mounted vertically and included a presser foot to hold the cloth in place.
It had a fixed arm to hold the needle and included a basic tension system.
This machine combined elements of Timonier,
Hunt,
And Howes machines.
Singer was granted an American patent in 1851.
The foot treadle used since the Middle Ages,
Used to convert reciprocating to rotating motion,
Was adapted to drive the sewing machine,
Leaving both hands free.
When Howe learned of Singer's machine,
He took him to court,
Where Howe won and Singer was forced to pay a lump sum for all machines already produced.
Singer then took out a license under Howe's patent and paid him $1.
15 per machine.
Before entering into a joint partnership was a lawyer named Edward Clark.
They created the first hire-purchase arrangement to allow people to purchase their machines through payments over time.
Meanwhile,
Alan B.
Wilson developed a shuttle that reciprocated in a short arc,
Which was an improvement over Singer and Howes.
However,
John Bradshaw had patented a similar device and threatened to sue.
So,
Wilson decided to try a new method.
He went into partnership with Nathaniel Wheeler to produce a machine with a rotary hook instead of a shuttle.
This was far quieter and smoother than other methods,
With the result that the Wheeler & Wilson Company produced more machines in the 1850s and 1860s than any other manufacturer.
Wilson also invented the four motion feed mechanism that is still used on every sewing machine today.
This had a forward,
Down,
Back and up motion,
Which drew the cloth through in an even and smooth motion.
Charles Miller patented the first machine to stitch buttonholes.
Through the 1850s,
More and more companies were being formed,
Each trying to sue the others for patent infringement.
This triggered a patent thicket known as the sewing machine war.
Clothing manufacturers were the first sewing machine customers,
And used them to produce the first ready-to-wear clothing and shoes.
In the 1860s,
Consumers began purchasing them,
And the machines,
Ranging in price from £6 to £15 in Britain,
Depending on features,
Became very common in middle-class homes.
Owners were much more likely to spend free time with their machines to make and mend clothing for their families than to visit friends.
And women's magazines and household guides,
Such as Mrs.
Beaton's,
Offered dress patterns and instructions.
A sewing machine could produce a man's shirt in about one hour,
Compared to fourteen and a half hours by hand.
In 1877,
The world's first crochet machine was invented and patented by Joseph M.
Merrow,
Then president of what had started in the 1840s as a machine shop to develop specialized machinery for the knitting operations.
This crochet machine was the first production overlock sewing machine.
The Merrill Machine Company went on to become one of the largest American manufacturers of overlock sewing machines.
It remains in the 21st century as the last American overlock sewing machine manufacturer.
In 1855,
Singer patented the Singer vibrating shuttle sewing machine,
Which used Allenby-Wilson's idea for a vibrating shuttle,
And was a better lockstitcher than the oscillating shuttles of the time.
Millions of the machines,
Perhaps the world's first really practical sewing machine for domestic use,
Were produced until finally superseded by rotary shuttle machines in the 20th century.
Sewing machines continued being made to roughly the same design,
With more lavish decoration,
Until well into the 1900s.
The first electric machines were developed by Singer Sewing Company and introduced in 1889.
By the end of the First World War,
Singer was offering hand,
Treadle,
And electric machines for sale.
At first,
The electric machines were standard machines,
With the motors strapped on the side.
But as more homes gained power,
They became more popular,
And the motor was gradually introduced into the casing.
Sewing machines were strictly mechanical,
Using gears,
Shafts,
Levers,
And so on,
Until the 1970s,
When electronic machines were introduced to the market.
Electronic sewing machines incorporate components such as circuit boards,
Computer chips,
And additional motors for independent control of machine functions.
These electronic components enabled new features such as automating thread cutters,
Needle positioning,
And backtacking,
As well as digitized stitch patterns and stitch combinations.
Because of the lifespan and increased complexity of the electronic parts,
Electronic sewing machines do not last as long as mechanical sewing machines,
Which can last over a hundred years.
Sewing machines can make a great variety of plain or patterned stitches.
Over three dozen distinct stitch formations are formally recognized by the ISO 4915-1991 standard,
Involving one to seven separate threads to form the stitch.
Lock stitch is the familiar stitch performed by most household sewing machines and most industrial single needle sewing machines using two threads,
One passed through a needle and one coming from a bobbin or shuttle.
Each thread stays on its own side of the material while being sewn,
Interlacing with the other thread at each needle hole by means of a bobbin driver.
As a result,
A lock stitch can be formed anywhere on the material being sewn.
It does not need to be near an edge.
Overlock,
Also known as serging or serger stitch,
Can be formed with two to four threads,
One or two needles,
And one or two loopers.
Overlock sewing machines are usually equipped with knives that trim or create the edge immediately in front of the stitch formation.
Household and industrial overlock machines are commonly used for garment seams in knit or stretchy fabrics,
For garment seams where the fabric is light enough that the seam does not need to be pressed open,
And for protecting edges against raveling.
Machines using two to four threads are most common,
And frequently one machine can be configured for several varieties of overlock stitch.
Overlock machines with five or more threads usually make both a chain stitch with one needle and one looper,
And an overlock stitch with the remaining needles and loopers.
This combination is known as a safety stitch.
A similar machine used for stretch fabrics is called the mock safety.
Cover stitch is formed by two or more needles and one or two loopers.
Like lock stitch and chain stitch,
Cover stitch can be formed anywhere on the material being sewn.
One looper manipulates a thread below the material being sewn,
Forming a bottom cover stitch against the needle threads.
An additional looper above the material can form a top cover stitch simultaneously.
The needle threads form parallel rows,
While the looper threads cross back and forth all the needle rows.
Cover stitch is so called because the grid of crossing needle and looper threads covers raw seam edges,
Much as the overlock stitch does.
It is widely used in garment construction,
Particularly for attaching trims and flat seaming,
Where the raw edges can be finished in the same operation as forming the seam.
A zigzag stitch is a variant geometry of the lock stitch.
It is a back and forth stitch used where a straight stitch will not suffice,
Such as in preventing raveling of a fabric,
In stitching stretchable fabrics,
And in temporarily joining two work pieces edge to edge.
When creating a zigzag stitch,
The back and forth motion of the sewing machine's needle is controlled by a cam.
As the cam rotates,
A finger-like follower that is connected to the needle bar rides along the cam and tracks its indentations.
As the follower moves in and out,
The needle bar is moved from side to side.
Very old sewing machines lack this hardware and so cannot natively produce a zigzag stitch.
But there are often shank-driven attachments available which enable them to do so.
Besides the basic motion of needles,
Loopers and bobbins,
The material being sewn must move so that each cycle of needle motion involves a different part of the material.
This motion is known as feed,
And sewing machines have almost as many ways of feeding material as they do of forming stitches.
For general categories,
There are drop feed,
Needle feed,
Walking foot,
Puller,
And manual.
Often multiple types of feed are used on the same machine.
Besides these general categories,
There are also uncommon feed mechanisms used in specific applications,
Like edge joining fur,
Making seams on caps,
And blind stitching.
The drop feed mechanism is used by almost all household machines and involves a mechanism below the sewing surface of the machine.
When the needle is withdrawn from the material being sewn,
A set of feed dogs is pushed up through slots in the machine surface,
Then dragged horizontally past the needle.
The dogs are serrated to grip the material,
And a presser foot is used to keep the material in contact with the dogs.
At the end of their horizontal motion,
The dogs are lowered again and returned to their original position,
While the needle makes its next pass through the material.
While the needle is in the material,
There is no feed action.
Almost all household machines,
And the majority of industrial machines,
Use drop feed.
Differential feed is a variation of drop feed with two independent sets of dogs,
One before and one after the needle.
By changing their relative motions,
These sets of dogs can be used to stretch or compress the material in the vicinity of the needle.
This is extremely useful when sewing stretchy material,
And Overlook machines,
Heavily used for such materials,
Frequently have differential feed.
A needle feed,
Used only in industrial machines,
Moves the material while the needle is in the material.
In fact,
The needle may be the primary feeding force.
Some implementations of needle feed rock the axis of needle motion back and forth,
While other implementations keep the axis vertical while moving it forward and back.
In both cases,
There is no feed action while the needle is out of the material.
Needle feed is often used in conjunction with a modified drop feed and is very common on industrial two-needle machines.
Most household machines do not use needle feed.
A walking foot replaces the stationary presser foot with one that moves along with whatever other feed mechanisms the machine already has.
As the walking foot moves,
It shifts the workpiece along with it.
It is most useful for sewing heavy materials,
Where needle feed is mechanically inadequate for spongy or cushion materials,
Where lifting the foot out of contact with the material helps in the feeding action.
And for sewing many layers together where a drop feed will cause the lower layers to shift out of position with the upper layers.
Some factory machines,
And a few household machines,
Are set up with an auxiliary puller feed,
Which grips the material being sewn,
Usually from behind the needles,
And pulls it with a force and reliability usually not possible with other types of feed.
Polar feeds are seldom built directly into the basic sewing machine.
Their action must be synchronized with the needle and feed action built into the machine,
To avoid damaging the machine.
Pullers are also limited to straight seams,
Or very nearly so.
Despite their additional cost and limitations,
Pulling feeds are very useful when making large heavy items like tents and vehicle covers.
A manual feed is used primarily in freehand embroidery,
Quilting,
And shoe repair.
With manual feed,
The stitch length and direction is controlled entirely by the motion of the material being sewn.
Frequently,
Some form of hoop or stabilizing material is used with fabric to keep the material under proper tension and aid in moving it around.
Most household machines can be set for manual feed by disengaging the drop feed dogs.
Most industrial machines cannot be used for manual feed without actually removing the feed dogs.
Sewing machines use special needles tailored to their needs and to the character of the material being sewn.
Modern sewing machines may be equipped with a needle guard.
Needle guards are a safety measure that are used to help avoid injuries.
Tension in a sewing machine refers to the pull of the thread between the needle and the bobbin.
Sewing machines have tension discs and a tension regulator.
If the stitch is too saggy or too tight,
The most likely cause is a tension problem.
